The TEAM (1980’s) group of prediction formulae improved predictability which lowered risk levels for topmakers. Topmakers rely heavily on prediction formulae. In most cases they use the TEAM 2 formulae (see below) with specific mill correction factors. Some mills have designed their own specific formulae and in time the TEAM 3 formulae will gain more use.

• Ha = 0.52 SL + 0.47 SS + 0.95 D - 0.45 VM - 0.19 M* - 3.5 + Mill Adjustment
• CVHa = 0.12 SL - 0.41 SS - 0.35 D + 0.20 M* + 49.3 + Mill Adjustment
• Romaine = - 0.11 SL - 0.14 SS - 0.35 D + 0.94 VM + 27.7 + Mill Adjustment

There are two elements to predictability and they are:

• Closeness to actual result, and
• Spread of “error”; the difference between the Actual and Predicted result.

Improved understanding and efficiencies of cards and combs allows the topmaker to fine-tune purchases and optimise raw material price. Raw wool attributes can be manipulated to take advantage of the price relativity between different attributes in the batch.

This is one example of how the topmaker mixes and matches wool lots to meet specification and price. There are many others. Here Diameter, Yield, VM and PoB (M) are all held constant and 5 units of Length & Strength are substituted for each other.

The first column shows details of high length and lower strength. Column 2 is the reverse, higher strength and lower length. The best solution is the former, the Hauteur and Romaine are similar, but CVHa is lower for the high strength blend but both are well within the normal commercial range. This affects the cost of the wool. High strength is expensive (= 6c/Kg). The topmaker makes the obvious choice, as both price and goodness of fit apply.

In many cases raw wool is not purchased until an order has been placed. A topmaker/merchant locks in a price and then has to meet that price with the available wool coming onto the market. He is at the mercy of rising prices and lack of supply of specific wools to meet a specification. The exception to this is when a mill or trader takes a “position” and gambles on price or the ability to sell product to well established clients To do this he needs an understanding of the types of tops these clients regularly use. This adds risk and is only taken when the market conditions suit.

A typical blend specification format is provided below. The following is not a recipe, but provides an example of the ranges that are commonly used commercially throughout the world.

Mean Fibre Diameter: 21 Micron

Maximum range for any component lot: +/ - 1.0 Micron

Mean Staple Length 87 mm

Maximum range for any component lot + / - 15 mm

Mean Staple Strength 36 N/ktex

Minimum for any component lot 26 N/ktex

Vegetable Matter Base: 1.0 %

Maximum in any component lot 3.0 %

VM type exclusion no seed/shive

Predicted Top Length as per TEAM 2: 70mm Ha

*All component lots to be measured for length and strength

Additional Items for unmeasured characteristics are often applied as well.

It is important for the topmaker to understand his mill or client’s combing efficiency. What is suitable for one client or mill line is not suitable for another. The table below illustrates this point.

A blend made for Mill B, would under-perform in Mill E because it is less efficient.

*Information on this page was sourced from IWTO