A master pattern is used for the production of each garment part and graded patterns are also produced to reflect the range of garment sizes to be made. The most cost efficient use of the fabric is ensured using a computer and the relevant software; this is a vital aspect of the garment making process because wastage of expensive wool fabric can significantly affect the profitability of the business. Patterns are also prepared for accessories such as linings, interlinings and pocketings.

Layers of fabric are spread on a cutting table at the appropriate length and the patterns are then traced along a layout chart which is placed immediately above them; the fabrics are then cut either by hand or, more normally, by computer operated blades. The cut panels are marked with serial numbers to ensure that only parts from the same fabric layer are sewn together. The accessories are also cut at this stage of the process.