The term “fabric quality” in wool knitwear can describe the nature of the fabric density (cover factor) and the number or types of faults within the fabric; it can also refer to the quality of the wool fibre itself.

Fabric Density

The structure of a knitted fabric has a large influence on the fabrics’ characteristics and can make them better or worse. Stitch density is directly related to the “loop length”, which is the length of yarn contained in one complete knitted loop, and this is adjusted on the knitting machine.

Loop length affects:

• stitch density/fabric density
• fabric weight and fabric cost
• fabric dimensions and panel size; shaped knitwear
• dimensional stability; relaxation and shrinkage
• physical performance; pilling, burst strength

There is a definite correlation between the wool yarn count and loop length of a fabric and this can be defined as the “cover factor”. The cover factor hence determines the handle, drape and performance of the fabric. Just as the yarn type dictates the optimum loop length, this in turn dictates the gauge or knitting machine required to knit the yarn

Typical example of yarn count/machine gauge relationship 

Fabric Faults

Fabric faults can be attributed not only to the knitting, but also the quality of yarns and dyeing and finishing.

Typical fabric faults found in wool knitwear are:

• Cockling or loop distortion
• fabric spirality
• yarn irregularity (thick/thin yarns yield thin stripes) and neps create small lumps like knots.
• barrè (horizontal stripes/bands cause by unequal loop lengths on adjacent rows/feeders)
• contaminated yarns (coloured fibre/vegetable matter)