Finishing of wool knitwear

The finishing stage is a very important and integral part in the manufacture of wool knitwear, because finishing and how well it is carried out can and does dramatically impact upon the handle, appearance and wear performance of the final knitted garment.

Objectives

Generally there are three main objectives when finishing wool knitted products. These include,

  • Relaxation of the knitted structure in order to release strains and tensions imposed during the spinning and knitting process. This is to minimise the potential for further relaxation so that no noticeable further shrinkage occurs during subsequent domestic laundering.

  • Improving both the handle and appearance of the final knitted product thereby making it ready and attractive for sale.

  • Removal of additives such as processing aids which were applied during manufacture to assist in processing e.g. Spinning lubricants. This is more important in the case of woollen spun knitwear such as Shetland and Lambswool which normally contain significant amounts of processing oil. Inadequate removal (Woolmark recommends less than 1.5% by weight Total Fatty Matter remaining), can lead to increased soiling, and the garment developing a smell during garment storage, due to the residual oil become rancid due to oxidation.

In addition to the above main objectives, finishing also provides an opportunity and a convenient point for applying added value or adding functional finishes to wool knitwear. For example; Easy Care, Stain and shower resistant etc.

Knitting News & Views
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