Measure of the closeness of a test result to the true value. The true value of a measured quantity can only be determined by measurement systems that are calibrated by direct reference to primary references such as lenth, weight, force, etc.

A synthetic fibre made from synthetic polymer, with some characteristics similar to wool.

Temporary holding of molecules on the surface of a material.

The degree of attraction of a dye molecule for a fibre.

A dress fabric which is lightweight with a slight brushed finish

A method of measuring the mean fibre diameter of a sample of wool in which a test specimen (a measured mass of the scoured, dried and carded sample or a measured mass of silver), after exposure to a conditioning atmosphere, is compressed to a fixed volume and a current of air is passed through it. The rate of flow is then adjusted so that the pressure drop across the sample equals the predetermined value, or the pressure drop across the sample is adjusted until the air flow equals a predetermined value. The rate of flow in the first case or the pressure difference in the second case, is an indicator of the mean fibre diameter of the wool in the sample.

The oven-dry, ash-free, ethanol-extractive-free, alkali-insoluble matter present in a wool sample (expressed as a percentage of the mass of the test specimen. It comprises vegetable matter together with any skin, dags, pack material, string, paper and lime).

An instrument for determining the fibre length distribution parameters on slivers and rovings made from combed wool or synthetic fibres.

Specially designed and built pad mangle for the application of Basolan to Merino wool in sliver form.

Subjective assessment of the value determining attributes of wool based upon length, texture, fineness, greasiness, vegetable matter content and colour.

The movement of dye molecules towards the fibre due to its affinity.

Highly hydrophilic finish applied to wool, usually knitted products to provide a cool touch and system of moisture management.

Style of cabled knitwear traditionally made and worn by fishermen from the Aran Isles off Galway, Ireland.

An ultra-fine wool fibre perfect for creating high quality garments with luxurious softness.

Code which indicates the state and area within Australia from which a wool clip originates

The residue of a scoured wool sample after it has been subjected to charring followed by heating to 800 degrees Celsius. It is expressed as a percentage of the sample mass and is taken to represent the dirt (sand and soil) not removed during scouring.

Merino fabrics with loops or curls that resemble the coat of the new born astrakhan lamb.

A computer-controlled instrument which measures the staple length, staple strength and position of break of individual staples. In operation, a continuous belt conveys each staple between an array of lights and an array of photocells, which detects the ends of the staple and enables the length (in millimeters, mm) to be measured. The staple is then grasped by two sets of jaws and broken. The force required is measured in Newtons. The two pieces of the broken staple are individually collected and wighted and, from the masses, lengths and core test yield, the staple linear density (thickness) is calculated aand expressed in kilotex; the staple strength is expressed as Newtowns / kilotex (N/ktex)/ The masses of the two pieces are also used to calculate the position of break.

Quality endorsement logo denoting wool garments that contain fibre which is 18.5 micron or finer. Licensed by The Woolmark Company.

The clean staple mass per unit of staple length at standard conditions

Australian Wool Exchange, the national body responsible for market reporting of wool auction sales in Australia.

Australian Wool Testing Authority Ltd is responsible for the independent testing of raw wool and issues test certificates

n. The imaginary line along the back of animal, following the course of its spine. v. Applying a remedy against external parasites (mainly lice) on the skin of a sheep, along the spine. Related terms: backliner – the remedy applied in this way; off-shears backliner – a backline treatment within 7 days of wool harvesting

The removal of creases and running marks from rope dyed fabrics.

Fleece wool from the back of the sheep – classer will direct if there is a need to remove

The unrecovered portion of a stretched fabric, often seen in the knees and "seat" of garments.

Metal clasp used to close a bale of wool

A tool to help grasp bales of wool while handling

1. A rectangular sack into which shorn wool is compressed.<br />2. Container of wool made of nylon and pressed to specifications set in the AWEX “Code of Practice” for the preparation of wool (Min. Weight 110kg - Max. Weight 204kg)

Made of synthetic polypropylene and one of the major contaminants of wool

Shrink-resist polymer

An organic Chlorine donating agent used to treat wool in order to impart a greater natural softness, and to assist in obtaining brighter shades of colour. (Basolan trade name is BASF)

The co-application to wool of Basolan 88 and Potassium Permanganate

Dyeing of a fabric where each batch is subjected to one stage of the dyeing process at a time, usually in the same dyeing vessel.

AWEX ID VM type. The hooked spines strongly attach to the Bathurst Burr to wool. However, the burr is easily removed during processing because the spines break off. In many cases these burrs float off in the scouring process.

Protrusion of fibres from the welt and cuff edges of garments.

Short wool from belly of sheep.

Wool shorn from the stomach of the sheep

The fabric direction at 45° to the warp or weft direction. A constant or systematic difference between a true value and corresponding test results (also see Accuracy or Precision).

Storage for a line of wool prior to pressing

Washing in enzymes to remove protruding fibres, more common in cotton knits.

A polymer found in nature. Starch, proteins and peptides, and DNA and RNA are all examples of biopolymers, in which the monomer units, respectively, are sugars, amino acids, and nucleic acids.

The principle of safeguarding the health of livestock and preventing the introduction of new diseases or infections. Measures taken to maintain the health of a flock / herd. Related term: quarantine

Dark pigmented wool (grey or black)

The application of selected chemicals to increase the whiteness of wool fabrics.

A textile containing two or more different fibres, variants of the same fibre or different colours and grades of the same fibre. Merino may be blended with cotton, silk, nylon, polyester, or viscose.

A process or processes primarily concerned with the efficient mixing of various lots of fibres. Blending is normally carried out to mix fibres, which may or may not be of different physical properties, market values, or colours. Blending is also used to ensure consistency of end product.

The design is applied using carved wooden blocks.

An alternative term for atmospheric decatising.

Area used for shearing the sheep in a shearing shed

Also a method of packaging fibre top.

AWEX ID VM Type. Bogan Flea initially forms as a spherical cluster of many seeds, about 5mm in diameter. Once on the sheep the cluster usually breaks up causing dense matting of the wool.

A three-ply yarn with one thread looser than the others which results in the yarn waving and looping on the surface. Also, fabric woven from this yarn. Taken from the French word meaning "to buckle or curl".

Produced in the same way as a bouclé yarn, but with a smaller looping and twisting effect.

Long, coarse, lustrous wool.

(1) The markings on a bale of wool used for identification. (2) Mark placed on the sheep for identification – needs to be removed from fleece as it prevents uniform dye uptake during processing

A temporary interference with the growth of the wool, causing a marked thinning or cessation of wool growth of all or a proportion of the fibre population, and producing distinct (often visible) weakness in one part of the staple. A window or clear break in the wool is an extreme form of low staple strength and may be caused by the same factors causing low staple strength, for example, sudden changes in pasture, lack of feed or water, sickness, lambing or faulty dipping.

Refers to a fabric’s ability to transmit moisture.

This is the area around the back of the sheep's tail and down the back of the hind legs. Breech wool is removed during crutching to prevent fly-strike

An extremely luxurious twill fabric made using plain woollen yarns

A trade term used to describe the best wool of skirtings, having the characteristics of fleece wool.

A marketing agent for greasy wool

Specialised broom or floor sweep used by a wool handler

An alternative term for raising.

A term used to describe well-nourished wool of substance, length and density.

A type of package produced by winding fibre top.

The removal of imperfections.

A term applied to wool containing certain seed pods, mainly of the medicago species. Wool carrying a percentage of burr. Light burr can be removed by the card or comb, whereas wool carrying heavy burr or vegetable matter may be carbonised prior to carding.

A package of greasy wool in a standard wool bale weighing less than 102kg or less than 91kg for lamb's wool. A wool pack containing wool packed down by hand

Frame used to hold a wool pack to be used as a butt

An animal of the dog family, e.g. dogs, dingoes, foxes

A group of viruses which cause diseases such as Lumpy Skin Disease in cattle, Sheep Pox and Goat Pox

A form in which some medicines are administered, usually by mouth (i.e. orally). The “capsule” is usually made of gelatin, which dissolves in the stomach and releases the contents. Related term: Slow release capsule – a capsule which does not immediately dissolve in the stomach, but releases its contents slowly over a period of several days/weeks/months, thus obviating the need for frequent re-treatment, sometimes used for worm remedies.

Very burry wools, usually short, from which the vegetable fault cannot economically be removed by mechanical methods

The removal of vegetable matter from wool fabric or loose fibre using acid solution. This is followed by crushing to remove the dissolved vegetable matter.

To undertake an action which removes vegetable matter and dirt from wool and which opens up the scoured wool fibre, mixing it to form a homogenous blend. This is also the first step in aligning the fibres and preparing them for spinning.

a continuous strand of carded and loosely assembled wool fibres with variable amounts of vegetable matter. Its linear density is approximately constant and it is without twist.

Wool suitable for the woollen system of yarn production where wool is carded but not combed. It is shorter than combing or worsted trade.

Printed list, prepared by the selling broker, showing the lot number, owner's brand, description of the wool and the number of bales in each lot. Catalogues are supplied to buyers for valuing purposes and to growers when they inspect their wool.

Pen adjoining the board where the shearer catches their sheep prior to shearing

A soft, plain weave, lightweight fabric, used as a base for printing.

A coarse tweed fabric originally made from the wool of the Cheviot sheep. Used for suits and overcoats.

A procedure developed by the CSIRO to prevent wool from felting and shrinking during machine-washing and tumble-drying. The process involves a light chlorination step, followed by the application of a polymer (Hercosett).

The ramp down which a sheep slides into the let go pen after being shorn

A knitting machine which has its needles arranged in a circle, thus producing a fabric which is tubular in form.

Grading wool into lines. Grading raw Merino according to quality.

The colour of wool after scouring. Clean colour is measured in terms of brightness and yellowness, both of which can affect dyeing potential

The total amount of wool shorn on a property in one year

A puckered irregular surface effect caused by loop distortion. Greatest potential for this type of finish in 100% wool plain knits.

Industry agreed minimum standard for the preparation of the Australian wool clip

Instrument used to determine the colour of wool by measuring the tri-stimulus values of the sample

The procedure of comparing dyed samples with a standard in order to achieve the correct shade in dyeing.

A diagrammatical system for specifying and measuring colours, typically using three separate components.

The depth of colour obtained when a standard mass of colourant is applied to a material under specified conditions.

A process performed after scouring, carding and gilling to remove most of the short fibre (noil), neps and foreign matter, leaving the longer fibres lying parallel to the direction of the sliver. The product, after two more gillings, is called top.

Wool suitable for conversion to yarn on the worsted system. Generally, it is Merino wool having a staple length of about 40mm or greater, or crossbred wool having a staple length of about 75mm or greater

the percentage of fibres in a distribution that are finer than 30 micron in diameter

A fabric composed of two or more layers of different materials.

The total blend of the fabric or yarn - e.g. 70% Merino wool, 30% silk

The application of moisture to dried wool fabrics to achieve a regain of 14-16%.

A volume of air, capable of being maintained at standard temperature or humidity, or both, in which specimens are conditioned in a standard atmosphere. For wool testing this is usually a temperature of 20 - 22 degrees celcius, and a relative humidity of 63 - 65 percent.

A cardboard or plastic cone shaped "tube'' on which yarn is wound

The uniform distribution of all the fibre characteristics within each lock and throughout the entire fleece.

Foreign items found in wool that affects processing that falls into two categories: (1) Fibrous - baling twine, dogs hair, feathers, fertilizer bags etc – These contaminants behave just like the wool fibre and end up woven into finished fabrics and (2) Hard – metal or hard substances – bale hooks, tools, tyre levers, timber etc – if undetected cause costly damage to early stage processing machinery that usually requires production lines to close while being repaired

Dyeing of a fabric as it passes continuously through a series of vessels.

Removing fibre specimens for testing by inserting a hollow tube into each bale.

Consists of testing a known quantity of wool for yield, fibre diameter and vegetable matter content and type; the sample is extracted from a bale of greasy wool, by means of a core of tube. Core tests are usually conducted prior to sale (pre-sale).

Matted section of a fleece

See yarn count.

The row of loops across the width of a knitted fabric.

The percentage of fibres in a distribution that are coarser than 30 micrometres

A setting process used to impart the required amount of flat set in wool fabrics. May be a batch or continuous process

The ability of a fabric to retain a pleat or a fold which has been made deliberately.

The natural waviness of Merino fibre. Varies with the diameter of the fibre.

The degree of alignment of the crimp waves within a staple

The number of crimp waves per centimetre of staple length. Coefficient of variation of crimp frequency refers to the variation in frequyency between staples within a lot.

An alternative term for shearing of fabric, removal of surface fibres

The result of crossing two different breeds of sheep

Generally applied to the progency of two distince sheep breeds, in Australia it is often that of a british breed and a Merino.

A form of cockling that occurs in woven fabrics.

The area on a sheep around the anus

Crutching refers to the removal of wool from around the tail and between the rear legs of a sheep. It can also refer to removing wool from the heads of sheep or the bellies of male sheep. This has a twofold purpose – minimisation of stain and as a control for possible flystrike

An inferior sheep that is removed from the flock

The inverse of the radius of arc of a segment of a fibre snippet. Curvature is a measure of crimp expressed as degrees per millimetre.

The end of a particular mob of sheep within a flock

The outer layer of Merino fibre. See also Scales.

Wool encrusted by faeces

Pigmented fibres usually black or grey as well as any fibres affected by stain. Medulated fibres are coarse hollow fibres that cause serious problems in the dying process that are generally found on the hocks and briskets of sheep

A voluntary vendor declaration for the risk of dark and / or medullated fibre contamination of Merino wool was introduced to Australia in July 2004, with the results reported in sale catalogues and test certificates. The risk scheme is based on the CSIRO concept of a stained and pigmented fibre risk factor for Merinos (DMFR), but extends it to include the dark and/or medullated fibre risk incurred when merino sheep come in contact with "exotic" sheep or their crosses. Exotic sheep are the breeds Awassi, Damara, Dorper and Karakul.

An alternative term for decatising.

A setting process used to stabilise the properties of wool fabrics developed during finishing. May be carried out at atmospheric pressure (blowing) or elevated pressure (Kier decatising).

A bulk of raw wool covered by a single IWTO test certificate. If previously untested, all bales are samples and tested as a group. If the commponent lots have been tested individually, the texst results may be combined in accordance with IWTO-31.

A bulk of raw wool covered by a single IWTO test certificate. If previously untested, all bales are samples and tested as a group. If the commponent lots have been tested individually, the texst results may be combined in accordance with IWTO-31.

A fungal condition that produces wool that is matted or clumped together

The process of releasing moisture that has been absorbed.

Tests to confirm a diagnosis made on the presence of clinical signs, when the cause is not immediately evident. Usually refers to tests done in a laboratory (but not always) on samples (tissues, body fluids) collected from the animal.

Modifications to wool (mostly chemical treatments) to enhance its usefulness in carpet manufacture.

Movement of dye molecules into the fibre.

Application of colour directly to the substrate as required by design.

The pattern is produced by applying chemicals that will destroy the dyes in the predyed fabric.

Separation of clumps into tiny particles that can then spread throughout the liquid.

Finishing processes which use no aqueous water, that is, may use steam or no moisture at all.

Animal remedies administered by mouth (i.e. orally). Usually refers to worm remedies (syn. anthelmintics), but could also mean nutritional supplements or other medicines.

Only using steam to relax or press garments.

The process of compressing bales, usually greasy wool, to a denssity exceeding 500 kg / m3 and restraining them with bands or wires. Commonly, three bales are dumped to form a tri-pack

The solution, usually water-based, containing the dyes, dyeing assistants and any other chemicals required for dyeing.

A chemical added to the dyebath to assist in the dyeing process.

An alternative term to dye.

A wool garment that has received a shrink-resist treatment so that it can be machine washed and tumble dried without suffering any deterioration in appearance or performance.

A soft, lightweight, loosely-woven worsted fabric.

Relates to the uniformity of the fleece principally in terms of quality number and length

A female sheep

The use of a dyebath of a relatively large liquor-to-goods ratio in which the fibres are immersed for some time to allow the molecules to leave the bath and attach to the fibres.

The leaving of the dye from a dyebath and becoming attached to the fibre being dyed.

Not occurring in Australia.

The term applied to breeds of sheep introduced to Australia, including Awassi, Damara, Dorper and Karakul. They are characterised by a fleece that seasonally sheds dark and/or medullated fibres, and as such have been given a high AWEX Breed Risk Rating of 5. Contact between exotic breeds and the Merino sheep increases the risk of dark and/or medullated fibre contamination of Merino wool.

Refers to how easily a fibre / yarn / fabric can be stretched.

On the outside (skin) of the animal’s body. Usually refers to parasites, such as ticks, lice and blowfly. Related term: Ectoparasite – external parasite

A form of pattering in knitwear using multiple colours. Traditionally from the….

A yarn that is different. During manufacture faults or irregularities are deliberately introduced in order to obtain interesting textural and visual effects.

The ability of a dyed substrate to retain its colour under the action of light, washing, rubbing, perspiration, etc.

Contamination, especially vegetable matter, in greasy or semi-processed wool. A fault may also include broken ends, missed picks, knitting lines, etc from the fabric forming process.

An ancient technique that produces a non-woven sheet of matted Merino. Felt is produced with interlocking of fibres and may be produced from woven or knitted substrate, or directly from the loose fibres.

The matting together of Merino fibres.

Wild. Refers to domestic animals which are now running wild, such as dogs, cats and pigs

A single strand of wool within a fleece. A unit of matter characterised by having a length at least 100 times its diameter or width. The fundamental component used in making Merino yarns and fabrics.

Measured by the latest in computer technology or an airflow instrument, and reported in microns (µ).

The distribution of the fibre diametre in a wool sample. Distribution can be expressed as a frequency table or a frequency histogram with data grouped into class intervals of one micron, and integer micron values as midpoints of the class intervals. The results may also be expressed as a standard deviation, coefficient of variation and the percentage of fibres coarser than a given value such as 30 micron. Fibre diameter distribution is measured by both the Sirolan Laserscan and the OFDA instruments.

The mean fibre diameter which is usually expressed in microns (µ).

A continuous single strand of fibre. Mostly refers to synthetics, but also applies to reeled silk.

Merino wool that has a diameter range of 18.6 to 20.5 micron. A fine wool Merino generally produces a greasy fleece weight of 3-5kg, from an adult bodyweight of 35-40kg.

Any process performed on a fabric following weaving or knitting. Includes cleaning, dyeing, setting processes and processes which alter the surface properties of the fabric.

A dye molecule becomes firmly fixed in one site.

A soft, woven Merino fabric with a raised surface.

Flat knitting machine with one or more needle beds.

A metal frame over which a synthetic filament mesh fabric has been stretched.

The main body of wool that forms the sheep’s coat

A large grouping of sheep that have been run under the same farm management conditions for the entire wool growing season, for example, they have been crutched and shorn at the same time. A flock may comprise a number of mobs for one wool growing enterprise.

How supple a garment is - important for comfort.

Sheep or wool infested or affected with or by maggots

A term that is applied to wool that is free or nearly free of vegetable fault. Typically the percentage of vegetable matter base is less than one percent

Second cuts, pencil locks, or small pieces of wool clinging to the fleece

Making use of wool fibres unique ability to felt and shrink to produce a fabric more 'dense' than can be produced from knitting or weaving. An alternative term for milling.

Faecal worm egg count. A diagnostic test to identify and count eggs of adult roundworms in a sample of the dung (faeces) of live sheep. Used as a measure of the presence and severity of a worm infestation. Related terms: FEC – faecal egg count, WEC – worm egg count

A sturdy, tightly-woven twill fabric. Suitable for trousers, suiting, raincoats and sportswear.

Dyeing of garments in final apparel form.

In knitting, gauge is the number of whales and/or stitches per length/width of a knitted fabric. May be expressed as needles per inch or needles per 1.5inches.

The genetic material of organisms (plants and animals) which determines their hereditary characteristics.

The machinery used for the gilling process.

Gilling is the blending together of card slivers with the direction of feed alternated to make a final sliver suitable for spinning. In worsted processing, three gilling operations are usually carried out prior to combing and two after combing.

Sodium Sulphate used in combination with a detergent during scouring.

A method of taking a representative samples from packages of textile fibres. A jaw is driven by a machine into the packages and when withdrawn brings out a sample of fibres. Grqab samples can be used to measure length and strength

The classification system used to describe raw Merino.

A fatty, pale yellow wax that coats raw Merino fibre and yields lanolin.

Wool as it is shorn from the sheep, before any processing.

The quality of fabric, yarn or fibre assessed by the reaction obtained from the sense of touch. It is concerned with the judgment of roughness, smoothness, harshness, pliability, thickness, softness, etc.

Yarns which are spun by hand using a spinning wheel or electric spinner.

Traditional woollen tweed, hand woven in the Outer Hebrides in Scotland. Used for coats and jackets.

Hauteur is mean fibre length in a top. Hauteur is usually regarded as a numerical average (i.e.. Assumes no relationship between fibre length and diameter), but is actually a length-biased distribution. The variation in the length is expressed as CvH%.

Heat energy released when Merino absorbs water from the atmosphere, can be liquid or gaseous form.

The heat evolved when a definite quantity of a substance is completely oxidized (burned).

A woven twill fabric with a reversing twill line that creates a zig zag pattern

Young sheep approx. 12-18 months of age

In Australia, hogget wool comes from young sheep that are usually shorn as lambs, with the first fleeced then know as hogget wool

High temperature.

A term applied to wool which is unnaturally fine, due to under-nourishment over an extended period

An innovation in non-woven technology in which carded wool is passed through high-pressure water jets to intermingle and bind the fibres.

The application of mechanical force, or centrifugal force, or suction, to remove liquid water from fabrics.

Water loving, absorbs water readily.

Tending to repel and not absorb water.

Readily absorbs moisture from the atmosphere.

The pattern is not produced by the direct application of colour, but in other ways such as resist and discharge styles.

Capable of infecting an animal and causing disease. Infectious agents are bacteria and viruses. Footrot and Ovine Johnes Disease are examples of infectious diseases. Infectious diseases can be transmitted by direct contact between animals (contagious diseases), or by a carrier or vector, such as an insect.

See "Smart textiles"

Inside the animal’s body. Usually refers to parasites, such as worms (roundworms, fluke, tapeworm). Related term: Endoparasite

An international forum for establishing standardised test procedures (IWTO Test Specifications), regulations governing the use of these procedures (IWTO Regulations), and procedures for arbitrating disputes over commercial transactions involving raw wool, wool sliver and wool yarns (the IWTO Blue Book). IWTO is pivotal in providing a technical and commercial framework for international and intra-national trade involving wool. Representation within IWTO is via National Committees appointed by the WOol Industry associations within member countries

A woven fabric with a detailed pattern produced on a jacquard machine. These machines are capable of producing designs by the individual control of each warp yarn.

A soft, plain-knitted fabric used for clothing. The face has vertical ribs and the reverse has horizontal ribs. Jersey is very elastic, crease-resistant and wears and washes well.

A machine for dyeing fabric in rope form in which the fabric is carried through a narrow throat by dye liquor circulated at high velocity.

A method for applying a remedy against external parasites, using a jetting wand or jetting comb.

A dyeing machine in which fabric in open width is transferred repeatedly back and forth from one roller to another; and passes each time through a relatively small volume of dyebath liquor.

An alternative term for a jig.

Wool from around the sheep’s jaw which can be matted or seedy

A protein substance which is the chief component of Merino fibre. Also human hair, other animal hair and fur, feathers, silk.

A method of constructing fabric by interlocking a series of loops of one or more yarns.

Young sheep from new born to 12 months of age (or when the first 2 permanent teeth erupt)

The first clip of wool shorn from lambs up to eight months old. The wool is soft, slippery and resilient and used for fine grade fabrics.

Also known as wool grease; this substance is a secretion from the sebaceous glands of the sheep. Often used for cosmetic applications.

A diagnostic test for identifying the worms infesting a live sheep. Usually done in conjunction with a FWEC. Sheep dung is incubated to allow worm eggs to hatch, whereupon the worm larvae are identified. Done because worm eggs are difficult to distinguish from each other.

An individual pen for each shearer to release their shorn sheep into

The degree of uniformity of dyeing throughout a batch.

The life history, usually of a parasite, which goes through different stages (e.g. adult, egg, larva / nymph, pupa), not all of which are parasitic.

The minimum concentration of oxygen in a mixture of oxygen and nitrogen that will just support combustion of a material under specified test conditions. The LOI for Merino is 25.2% which means it requires a higher level of oxygen than exists in the atmosphere.

Each different grade of wool is separated and referred to as a “line of wool” e.g. A line of Fleece, Bellies or Locks

The ratio of liquor to goods (on the basis of the respective masses) in a dyeing process.

A small, approximately finger-size clump of wool that tends to stay together when shorn from the sheep. Sometimes referred to as a staple.

Very short wool cut from the fleece by shearers. Either short wool from around the points or second cuts caused when shearers lift the handpiece off the skin and then shear the sort fires left on the skin to tidy up.

Coarse, felted woollen fabric that's durable and water-repellent. Used for coats and jackets.

A process in which the wool fabric is dampened with water and allowed to relax for 1-2 days.

A device or machine for weaving cloth.

The state that a fabric is in when taken straight from the loom. It is 'unfinished'.

Accurate and simple method for measuring and controlling the tightness of knit structures.

Any number of bales of wool, of similar mass and dimensions, prepared for sale as a single parcel in accordance with accepted trade practices.

A remedy used to kill lice on animals.

Wool from sheep that have been affected by lice. The lice make the sheep itchy so they rub against trees and fences and this make the wool become matted and straggly. The wool smells and turns yellowish.

The light reflective quality of a fibre or fabric exhibited in shine and gloss.

A group of remedies used against parasites. Their main activity is against roundworms, but they also have various degrees of efficacy against some external parasites, such as lice, flies, ticks and mites. Examples include ivermectin, abamectin, moxidectin and doramectin. Related terms / synonyms: Mectins, MLs

The science of measurement. In the wool industry it is often applied to fibres, ie. Metrology

The average diameter (thickness) of a group of fibres from an animal. Expressed in microns (µ)

Merino wool that has a mid-range fibre diameter, usually between 20.6 and 22.5 micron.

Fibres which have a medulla, that is, are hollow down the centre. In wool fibres, this creates a different appearance to those which are unmedullated, and effects the dyeing properties.

A synthetic fibre (e.g.: polyester, polyamide) which melts at a lower than normal temperature; used to provide fibre stability in carpet yarns and nonwoven structures.

A heavyweight woollen cloth used for overcoats and hunting jackets.

The insertion of yarn into a woven fabric where the warp or weft is missing and also the correction of other faults by means of needlework.

Wool which has been treated usually in top or loose fibre which has an enhanced lustre and improved hand feel

The dominant apparel wool sheep grown in Australia. A superfine wool that comes from the Merino strains of sheep.

Quality endorsement logo denoting superfine Merino suitable for both knitwear and tailored clothing. Licensed by The Woolmark Company.

Similar to Merino vintage but produced on woven fabric and garments made from Merino wool.

An array of casual coloured effects e.g. Faded, frosted, washed out etc produced on Merino knitted products.

A process by which tiny parcels of a gas, liquid, or solid active ingredient are packaged within a second material for the purpose of shielding the active ingredient from the surrounding environment.

A unit of measurement used in assessing the diameter of a fibre which equals one millionth of a metre.

Dye molecules moving to other sites to achieve a more level dyeing.

The application of mechanical action to cause the required amount of fibre migration in wool fabrics through the ability of fibres to felt.

A group of sheep that have been run under exactly the same conditions for the full wool growing season, for example, a mob of ewes that have been run in the same paddock, drench and mated/lambed at the same time

Range of microencapsulated skin toners and moisturisers which are slowly release from the garment to the skin during wear.

The plate used to compress the wool within the press. It is moved up and down manually by bars and springs or by hydraulics – Proper nae is “Plate”

Fine, semi-opaque fabric.

A soft or fuzzy surface on fabric.

An alternative term for raising.

Fibre obtained from animal, vegetable or mineral sources, as opposed to those made from chemicals.

Part of a fleece from the neck region of the sheep

Clusters or balls of fibres that should be straitened or removed in the processes leading up to spinning. Sometimes progress through to fabric and become a fault.

The short fibre left over from combing wool

A fabric or other textile structure from fibres which has been produced without having to go through the conventional spinning and weaving (or knitting or tufting) route.

Butts or bags of wool that does not meet the wool classer's standards for main lines. <br />Another term for all other lines of wool other than Fleece, Pieces and Bellies

Immediately after shearing. Remedies registered for “off-shears” treatment may be applied for up to 7 days after shearing. Related term / synonym: Off the board

An instrument for measuring fibre diameter mean and distribution using an automated microscope and image analysis techniques

Removing good fleece wool and down grading that wool into pieces lines while skirting

A general term for soft-flow jet and partial immersion jet dyeing machines. Their action is characterised by the textile material in rope form being lifted briefly from the dyebath, by a small diameter winch or reel, into an overflow reservoir and then carried along a transportation tube by means of a relatively gentle flow of dye liquor.

Any wool that has more than 12 months growth

On weight fibre

Dyeing of yarns, packed on packages, typically plastic cones.

A process in which a chemical egg dye or finishing agent is applied to the fabric by padding after which the fabric is stored (batched) to allow time for fixation of the dyestuffs.

A process in which a chemical egg dye or finishing agent is applied to the fabric by padding after which the fabric is steamed to achieve fixation of the dyestuffs.

A form of mangle for the impregnation of chemicals (e.g.: dyestuffs) in open width in which the textile is passed through one or more nips.

An organism living at the expense of another (the host). Can be classified in various ways, such as “external” and “internal”.

Fleece wool discoloured by sheep’s faeces while the sheep are being penned. Usually a dark green colour.

Member of a shearing team responsible for penning the sheep

A breed of sheep developed by breeders George Peppin and Thomas Shaw in the late 1850s that constitutes 70% of the Australian Merino flock.

An inspection process used to identify faults in the finished fabric.

A chemical used to kill a pest. Crop pesticides can be herbicides (weed killers) insecticides (insect killers) or fungicides (fungus/mould killers). On animals, pesticides usually refers to remedies used against external parasites.

A measure of the hydrogen ion concentration in an aqueous solution.

Dyeing of woven or knitted fabric in fabric form, prior to making the garment.

Wool skirted from fleece containing dark sweat locks. This wool must be removed as it does not scour completely and affects the background colour of the fibre. This causes major problems in the dying process

Formation of fibrous balls on the surface of a fabric.

Male sheep’s penis

Urine stained wool found on bellies from around the pizzle area of male sheep

A method for applying a remedy against external parasites by plunging the animal into a vessel / vat / tank containing the chemical.

To twist together two or more single yarns to form another yarn or cord. One of any number of single yarns twisted together to form a yarn.

A molecule which has positive and negative charges on opposite sides (or at opposite ends).

A major contaminant in the wool industry commonly used as hay baling twine dyed black and red.

An indication of where a staple breaks during extension, determined by comparing the masses of clean wool in the broken portions of the staple. It does not imply that a break exists in the staple. Reported as the percentage of breaks in each third of a staple, viz. tip, middle or base

The application of pressure and often steam to improve the appearance and lustre of wool fabrics.

A process for production of texts and / or images onto fabric or final garment.

A thickened medium containing the dye (colour) and auxiliaries.

I can't find a description here

Wool removed from the skins of slaughtered sheep.

The standard of excellence or desirability of a sheep or its fleece. It may be specified by the term 'count'.

The procedure of separating sick or infected animals from healthy ones (until they have convalesced or are removed from the premises), or isolating new introductions from the resident flock / herd, until their health status has been established. This is a basic biosecurity procedure.

Name for accommodation provided at camp out sheds

A chalky like substance used to identify sheep

A mechanical process used to create a pile on the fabric surface.

A male sheep with its sexual organs intact used for breeding

Wool fibre together with various amounts of vegetable

A type of weaving loom that carries the weft yarn across the fabric by…..

Greasy wool in natural state before scouring.

An alternative term for winch.

The weight of water able to be absorbed by a fibre as a percentage of its dry weight. Wool can hold up to 30% water in regain, without feeling wet.

Fibres produced from a natural chemical building block, but extruded as a synthetic is. Examples include viscose, which is regenerated cellulose.

Leftover chemical remaining in / on an animal after application / administration of a remedy. Can relate to food (meat, milk), or wool. Residues are important as a potential health hazard to humans (meat consumption, wool handling), or environmental contaminant (e.g. discarded dipwash, wool scour effluent).

A fibre’s ability to spring back to its original state after being crushed or wrinkled. Sometimes referred to as memory.

The design is printed onto a white or dyed substrate using a substance that will prevent dye uptake in subsequent dyeing.

The ability to withstand the action of a remedy which is (or was previously) effective against a significant portion of the population. Can refer to bacteria (“antibiotic resistance”) or parasites (e.g. anthelmintic resistance, lousicide resistance). Resistance develops over time after the bacteria or parasites have been exposed to repeated treatments with the remedy.

The force per unit area required to compress a fixed mass of carded wool to a fixed volume; with result is expressed in kilopascals (kPa). Resistance to compression is largely a function of fibre diameter and crimp.

Spinning onto a small rotating package with a travelling guide wrapping the yarn onto the package.

The design is applied using etched or engraved rollers.

The camount of noil produced during combing expressed as a percentage of the total top and noil

Fabric that has been drawn into the form of a rope.

Long crease marks in dyed or finished goods running approximately in the warp direction. They are caused by wet processing in rope form.

Pressing of fabric between a large roller and a metal shoe. The shoe and/or the roller may be heated.

A seamless cylindrical screen constructed from a metal mesh.

When used as a preparation for spinning it is called a roving. A roving is often used to spin worsted yarn, and many hand spinners buy their fibre in roving form. The term 'tow' is not often heard, except when dealing with linen.

Two hour work period in the shearing shed

An alternative term for rope marks.

A small separate part of textile fibres or products representative of the fleece, lot or consignment.

The reaction between fats and oils with KOH or NaOH to produce soap.

A woven fabric with long weft floats on the surface of the fabric

A woven fabric with long warp floats on the surface of the fabric

Make up the outer layer of Merino fibre. They are hard, flattened and do not fit together evenly. The exposed edges point towards the tip of the fibre and give rise to felting.

Wool that can be washed clean of all impurities and colour

Wool that has been washed, usually in a series of bowls, by the use of alkali, soap and water of varying temperatures. This process removes the dirt, grease and suint from the wool.

Cleaning raw Merino and removing such impurities as dirt, sweat, and grease by washing. Fabric is also scoured to remove impurities from weaving, singing, and carbonising.

A process used to convert fabric in rope form to fabric in open width.

Refer to locks

Wool containing grass seeds

A method of spinning that overcomes speed limitations in conventional ring spinning systems.

The bound edge of a fabric, running parallel to the warp and prevents the fabric unravelling.

A micro-encapsulation delivery system that creates intelligent textiles which release fragrances or active ingredients, such as aloe vera or vitamin E, over a period of time.

A twill fabric of worsted wool, often used for suits.

Wool from the hock area (lower legs) of sheep. Shanks must be kept completely separate from all other lines as they contain medulated (coarse hollow fibres) that cause serious problems in the dying process

Removing the fleece from a sheep with electric or hand shears.

Employs members of the shearing team and contract with woolgrower to shear his clip

All staff employed to work in a wool harvesting team

Introduced breeds of meat sheep that self shed fleeces that contain pigmented and medulated fibres. These wool must be kept separate from all other lines (examples include: Wiltshire Horn, Wiltipoll, Damara and Dorpers)

A term/call by shearers to the penner up to fill up their catching pen

Traditionally, a fine yarn made from the wool of sheep raised in the Shetland Islands. Now refers to woollen yarns and fabrics with similar characteristics i.e. warm and light. Also, a garment, especially a sweater, made of this yarn.

A laboratory carding machine used for removing vegetable matter from scoured wool and blending the fibres for subsequent measurement

A method for applying a remedy against external parasites by spraying the chemical onto them in a confined space.

Refers to the ability of a fabric to resist felting shrinkage

A reduction in length or width of a material caused by certain treatments, especially washing.

The application of chemical and/or polymer treatments to loose wool, top, yarn, or fabrics to prevent felting shrinkage.

The "carrier" of a small parcel of weft yarn across the open shed of a fabric that is begin woven.

Shrinkprrofing process developed by PP(T) - Devan Ltd, applied to knitted fabrics or garments

The use of a high temperature flame to remove surface fibres from wool fabrics.

An optical sensing method that allows yarns to be examined for contaminants as they are wound from a bobbin onto a cone at speeds up to 1600 m/min. It results in finer yarns and reduces fabric repair costs by 90%.

A spinning technology that wraps a worsted yarn around a polyester core to produce worsted suits which don’t distort at the knees and the elbows.

An instrument to measure mean fibre diameter and fibre diameter distribution by detection of shadows in a laser beam, brought about by causing snippets to be carried through the beam in a suitable liquid

A method of worsted spinning developed by the CSIRO that combines spinning and doubling in the one operation, and is especially suited to lightweight trans-seasonal fabrics.

Sizing agents are applied to warp yarns prior to the warp beam production in order to make the yarn more smooth and strong. This helps in the weaving process by reducing the warp end breakages.

Small pieces of skin accidentally removed during the shearing process. Must be kept separate from all other lines as the skin pieces cause damage/blockages to combing machines

Removal of sweat locks and other processing faults in present from the outer section of fleece under instruction from the woolclasser. <br />Removing the stained, unusable, or undesirable portions of a fleece.

A sliver is the bundle of parallel fibres produced in early stages of fibre preparation, principally, the output from carding.

Textiles that are able to sense stimuli from the environment, react to them and adapt to them by a range of functionalities in the textile structure. The stimulus as well as the response can have an electrical, thermal, chemical, mechanical, magnetic or other origin.

Very short pieces of fibre, typically 2mm long, which have been cut to measure fibre diameter and related properties.

Process used involving oxidation followed by the application of a micro-silicone to produce mercerised merino

Shetland garments made from Australian wool, having the traditional Characteristic rugged and milled appearance but with a softer hand feel.

SoloSpun yarns are weavable singles yarns that allow for the production of very light weight wool fabrics. Produced by the attachment of small rollers onto each spindle of a ring spinning frame.

A liquid containing molecules dispersed throughout it that were originally in the solid or gaseous state.

Washing of knitwear in an organic solvent in a dry cleaner.

The process of taking up and holding moisture.

Separating a whole fleece into parts.

Wool fibres that don’t break easily – wool that test 35 newtons per kilotex and above is usually deemed as sound. Wool that has a good tensile strength; which can more easily withstand the topmaking process.

Applying various colours at intervals along a yarn, producing a multi-colour effect.

Technique using dye attract and dye resist resins applied to Merino knitted garments and fabrics prior to to dyeing in order to create quick response multi-coloured effects and patterns upon piece dyeing.

The process of making yarn from fibre by inserting twist.

The machine on which multiple yarns may be produced by ring, open-ended, self twist, or other spinning methods.

A rubber or metal blade used to force printing paste through the screen mesh.

Male sheep that has not been castrated properly

Wool fibres that are affected by various contaminants that can’t be removed by scouring and are permanently discoloured. e.g. urine, pen, water and blood stain

Section of a shearing board allocated and used by one shearer

A group of individual wool fibres “clumped” together within a fleece

the bottom of the wool staple that represents the portion of the wool staple where it has been cut directly adjacent to the skin surface.

Fibres which are not continuous. Wool is referred to as "long staple" and cotton as "short staple". Synthetic and regenerated filaments can be cut into staple fibres.

The application of steam (heat and moisture) to fix dyes to the substrate.

Wool lacking in character and possessing a stealy or glassy sheen. It is produced on pastures deficient in trace elements such as copper.

Plastic or metal template used for branding bales

A machine for the drying and straightening of fabrics by holding straight and tight on pins or chains and passing though chambers of hot air.

Fibres which have been shortened in length by stretching to the point where they break.

A subjective term generally referring to a combination of characteristics of wool, which include brightness, dust penetration, crimp frequency and definition, tip shape and fibre density.

The undyed material (fibres, yarn, sliver, top, fabric, carpet) submitted to a dyeing or printing process.

A shearing shed close enough to travel to and from on a daily basis

Excretion from sweat glands of the sheep, which is deposited on the wool fibres.

International rating system to identify fine Merino fabrics from Super 100's through to Super 210's. The higher the figure, the finer the fibre used.

Subjective assessment of 'how smooth' the surface of the fabric is. Relates to frictional properties. As an example - the 'smoother' the fabric the lower the surface friction.

Capable of being used repeatedly, without exhausting the resources.

Wool fibres encrusted with black heavy conditioned crease from the sweat glands of sheep often referred to as fribs

A "man-made" fabric produced from a chemical compound

A booked used to record the numbers shorn by each individual shearer (tally) used to determine wages

Woollen or worsted fabric with a plaid design. Originates from Scotland.

Ratio of the amount of top produced to the amount of noil produced during processing

Wool that breaks easily anywhere along the staple that causes problems during processing. Mid point breaks cause the most concern to processors

The amount of pulling a fibre, yarn, or fabric can withstand before it breaks.

A certidficate for a lot of wool resulting from the testing of samples in accordance with the relevant Test Regulation (eg. IWTO) and Test Specification. Test results may include measurement of yield, diameter, vegetable matter base, staple length and strenght and colour

The surface effect of cloth or fibre as dull, lustrous, woolly, stiff, soft, fine, coarse, open or closely woven. Also known as handle or feel.

Garments which have been manufactured from a combination of Easy Care and untreated yarns, which are then either milled or pieced dyed to create Felt/No Felt Effects.

The amount of Total Fatty Matter (grease, lubricant, softener, etc) expressed as a percentage when referring to the weight of the yarn or garment.

Uses heat to create splices which are less visible and more abrasion-resistant.

the outer extremity of a staple of wool

A strand of longer fibres that have been straightened, made parallel and separated from the shorter fibres by combing.

Wool from the top of a sheep’s head

Quality endorsement logo denoting specially treated, machine-washable wool knitwear that can be tumble dried without shrinking. Licensed by The Woolmark Company.

The weight of the entire raw fleece.

A coarse, rugged woollen fabric made in various twill weaves. Used for suits and coats.

Clothing made of tweed fabric.

A fabric with diagonal parallel ribs. Also, the weave used to produce such a fabric. Twills may be broken which will produce short diagonal lines.

The number of turns about its axis per unit of length observed in a yarn or other textile strand. It is usually indicated as turns per inch or tpi or alpha (a)

Not removing all the wool faults that affects processing performance from the fleece

The term to describe all grass seeds and burrs found in wool

Consists of burrs, grass seeds, thistles, hardheads, straw, chaff and small pieces of stick and bark. Vegetable matter base is established when a sample of wool is place in a boiling solution of 10% caustic soda. The wool is dissolved and the remaining vegetable matter is dried and weighted. Vegetable matter base is expressed as a percentage of the weight of the greasy core sample

Smooth luxurious wool fabric which has a glossy, satin weave.

A column of loops up the length of a knitted fabric.

In weaving, the warp is the set of lengthwise yarns through which the weft is woven. Each individual warp thread in a fabric is called a warp end.

Knitting down the fabric using many warp ends at one time. Used for open and mesh fabrics, nets, laces, etc

The removal of unfixed dyes and print paste components from the substrate.

A lamb that has been weaned from its mother, or has stopped suckling from it's mother (6 to 9 months of age)

A singles yarn that can be successfully woven where sizing or other treatments may or may not be necessary.

Making cloth by interlacing yarns at right angles according to a predetermined pattern.

Yarns running width ways in woven fabrics.

Loops are formed across the fabric using one or more yarn packages.

Any process for the finishing or a fabric in a aqueous solution. Includes scouring, dyeing, crabbing.

Male sheep that has been castrated. The majority of male sheep on a farm are wethers

Movement of moisture within a fabric by capillary action.

Wool is shorn from around the eyes and face. This wool is usually combined with the second cuts and short crutchings to form locks

A dyeing machine consisting of a dye vessel fitted with a driven winch (usually above the liquor level) which rotates and draws a length of fabric, normally joined end to end, through the liquor.

The fibres covering the skin of a sheep, goat, alpaca, llama.

Call made by shearer to wool handler to remove shorn wool

Is the dry weight of wool fibre free from impurities.

Book for recording bale numbers, content, weight and pertinent information. This is maintained by the wool presser

Lightweight opaque wool fabric suitable for wear all year.

A key member of a shearing team that works under the supervision of the woolclasser

The whole operation from shearing to baling the wool for sale

Specifically designed bag made of nylon to pack and transport wool

A machine used to package wool

A member of a shearing team who responsible for packing the bales

The dedicated area within a shearing shed where fleeces are skirted and classed

This occurs when something disrupts the flow of wool from the shearer to the table that necessitates wool stacking up on the floor between the shearer and the wool rolling table.

Table on which fleeces are placed for skirting and rolling

Member of a shearing team responsible for classing (grading) the clip and supervising the wool handlers

Price-competitive blend of 22 micron Merino and polyester. Provides natural comfort and high performance for active wear.

The owner of the sheep that are shorn

Bulky and uneven yarn made from shorter wool fibres, and the fabric made from such yarns.

A method of yarn production from wool fibres that have been carded, but not combed or gilled. The fibres are not as well aligned as in the worsted system. Wool used for the woollen system are called carding types, which generally have a shorter fibre length than those used for the worsted system.

Innovative Merino fabric suitable for military, industrial, medical, work wear, bedding, transport and equestrian uses.

Firm-textured, compactly twisted woollen yarn made from long fibres, and the fabric made from such yarn. Suitable for dresses and suits.

Fabrics produced by interlacing yarns.

Garments made from woven fabrics.

Ability of a fabric to bounce back after it has been twisted, wrinkled, or distorted in any way.

A continuous strand of fibres twisted or otherwise held together.

The numerical determination of the thickness of a yarn. May be given as mass per unit length, or length per unit mass. Tex is the universal system referring to the mass of yarn per 1000m. For wool yarns the yarn count is often given as Nm.

The amount of clean wool that is derived from greasy wool after scouring, expressed as a percentage.

A thick lustrous soft Merino fabric with a long shaggy nap. Named after the zibeline, a small black animal of the sable family, found in Siberia.