The progression of the current season confirms concepts of preciousness, lightness, and consciousness for ecological values, which were also identified in our colour trend report, and yarn trade show Pitti Filati, as major directions for Spring/Summer 2009.

Luxury and fineness of fibre are distinctive qualities of Australian Merino, which are further enhanced by rigorous research and development of new spinning techniques and treatments. These processes allow for the creation of some of the most sophisticated and lightweight yarn available.

The natural, eco-friendly features inherent to wool, as well as specific raw material selection, an oriented choice of colours and production cycles with a low environmental impact, make it a perfect choice under the aspect of environmental awareness.

Focusing on these key concepts, the trend evolution  has been summarised in the following themes:

• Cool distinction
• Poetic evanescence
• Organic chic
• Culture fusion

Cool Distinctions

Aiming at classic completeness and under the influence of a new feeling for understatement, this theme combines two of the major directions for knits this season - luxury and absolute neatness.

Inspiration relies on design classics that are creatively updated with a relaxed approach in modernist, graphic versions for an extremely refined but absolutely cool, contemporary style.

The focus is on perfection on all levels, from yarn structure to colour, fabrication and detailing. Rigorous fibre research, new spinning techniques and treatments result in timeless and understated yarns with a modern twist in noble, natural fibres, such as wool, silk, and cashmere.

The aesthetic and performing qualities of Australian Merino play a key role for this theme.

Colours

Tonal or even monochrome combinations of light and  shadow or matt and metallic shine based on hues of white, cool beiges and  neutral greys with serious blues through to black, are emphasised with discreet  graphic accents of red, electric blue or acid yellow-green.

Fibres and yarns

• Clean and precise construction of yarns
• Neatly plied and corded qualities, plain tape yarns
• Lightweight trans-seasonal blends of wool and cashmere with cotton
• Luxury basics in Super 120s extra fine Merino and wool/silk blends
• Natural stretch and cashmere-like velvety touch
• High twists add fresh handle and springiness
• Matt crepe aspects also in super-light knits
• Shimmer and fluidity in blends with silk or viscose
• Experimental twists with subtle tonal or matt and shine chiné effects
• Synthetic technical filaments add occasional sparkle and metallic shine

Structures, textures and details

• Simple plain stitches
• Compact knits with defined fit
• Fluidly draped detailing
• Geometric micro-textures and symmetric rib structures
• Fully fashioning
• Placed ripple detailing
• Plain and purl stitch geometric patterns

Poetic evanescence

A cultured, individual style with handcrafted charm characterises this theme,  fusing the elementary and the highly ornate, the natural and the stylised, the  matt and the glazed, found in both Japanese and Nordic aesthetics.

Extreme lightness of materials, confirmed as an ongoing trend, bestows evanescence to the atmosphere that combines contemplative refinement and nostalgic creativity with a sweet and sour romantic spirit.

The previously unknown levels of fineness are obtained through technological development that allows creating of the most sophisticated and lightweight knits in both natural and manmade fibres like cotton, silk and viscose.

Colours

A tender modulation of tinted neutrals like bone china white,  biscuit, or pink-infused greys and sugary pastel hues of pink, light blues,  aqua and acid greens and lilacs in quaint combinations with added luminosity  through  touches of pearly lustre and  ceramic glaze.

Fibres and yarns

• Dry touch micro crepe and ondé yarns
• Cool crêpe-touch extrafine Merino
• Gauges from standard 12 gg to sheer, gauzy fine counts
• Mercerised cordelets
• Stretch and fluid yarns
• Matt viscose and viscose blends
• Pearlised and opalescent effects
• Mouliné yarns like candy-stripe twists
• Yarns with coloured nubs
• Hollow, featherweight construction for more voluminous yarns
• Printed yarns with water-coloured effects
• Satin and tulle ribbons, tape and chainette yarns

Structures, textures & details

• Gossamer filigree openwork and cobweb lace aspects
• Broderie anglaise look
• Candied lusterware stripe patterns
• Barely perceptible prints
• Festooned doily tatting and crochet effects combining different gauge yarns
• Ruffles and frills
• Fan pleating and delicate smocking
• Decorative appliqué and embroidery
• Iridescent crystal beads and sequins

Organic chic

The aesthetical perfection of nature and ethical consciousness inspire a theme that draws on botanical, mineral or even animal influences on fibre content, colour and texture in a deluxe interpretation.

In opposition to the stereotyped ideas of crafty and rustic, the inherently raw, precious quality of natural fibres becomes exquisitely refined without ostentation: with their irregularities, linen, hemp and raw silk add character to sophisticated  yarns.

In addition to organic raw material and biological finishes and dyes, modern technical naturals with added-value attributes such as subtle iridescence, enhanced springiness or antibacterial properties, are created through innovative spinning processes, treatments or blends with silk and man-made fibres.

Colours

A palette of neutrals that ranges from cereal beiges with a yellow-pink undertone to cool greys tinged with blue, worked up in softly blurred harmonies with white and faded  vegetal shades of greens, reds and browns like those of natural dyes made from  infusions of leaves, flowers and roots.

Fibres and yarns

• Crêpe and sanded-touch
• Fresh dry handle in wool and linen blends
• 100% biological yarns with organic wool as top-end product
• Linen and linen blends in all gauges
• Linen in blends with silk or viscose for summery handle with luminous aspect
• Multi-filament, chiné effect in silk and silk blends
• Shappe and tussah silks
• Shantung and mélange yarns
• Preciously raw micro-flames and long iridescent shot effects
• Yarns dappled and traced in harmonious tints
• Alternative sustainable blends with bamboo, maize, soy and algae

Structures, textures and details

• Crinkled and crumbly textures
• Crisp textured surfaces
• Basket-weave and honeycomb stitches
• Vanisé rib structures
• Irregularly ribbed or pleated knits
• Openwork and ladder structures
• Vintage and batik effects
• Batik-look overprinted effects
• Abraded colour

Culture fusion

Inspired by artificiality versus authenticity, this theme fuses seemingly disparate; references in a vibrant melting pot that bridges cultural boundaries: tribal; symbolism, lush exotic imagery, handicraft and urban sportive references.

Energy, speed and a ‘feel good’ attitude for an absolutely contemporary reconciliation of opposites: micro and macro, precise and blurred, monochrome and multicolour are layered together in dynamic and unexpected combinations, often in almost; pulsating contrasts.

Natural fibres, like cotton and wool, are highly processed and worked up with man-made fibres, such as viscose and nylon, in yarns featuring gleaming and technical surfaces and eminent performing qualities.

Colours

A dynamic, multicoloured chemistry of amplified and richly pigmented brights, like ocean and sky blues, floral pinks and violets, coral reds and oranges as well as deep dark tones of brown, grey and black in pulsating contrast with synthesised hues up to fluorescent intensity.

Fibres and yarns

• Sportive, performing blends of wool or cashmere with cotton
• Stretch fibres for compact handle and wearing comfort
• Mirror-like high-sheen and wet look viscose
• Super smooth viscose with dramatic drape
• Moulinè yarns combining gleaming, synthetic filaments with natural fibres
• Molten metal effects
• Metallic chainette and knitted tape yarns for chain mail structures
• Ikat-look space-dye yarns in pop colours
• Colour-flash mouliné yarns
• Recycled-look multi-plied tweed effects
• Cellophane plastic inclusions
• Woven-look banded crochet

Structures, textures and details

• Supple technical plains
• Sportswear mesh stitches
• Chain mail-like purl knits
• Pixelated stripes
• Ripples and tucks
• Tribal and exotic designs rendered in geometric intarsia
• Colour-blocking
• Mixed-media embroidered graffiti
• Bold mixes of colour and/or textures
• Slick metallic and vinyl coatings and prints